To say that a lot has happened in the past few days would be a drastic understatement.


I flew past the Tien Shan (天山) mountains to get to Urumqi, the capital of Xinjiang province, and stepped into a whole new world. I was welcomed by the cheerful team of researchers that are letting me work with them here at the Chinese Academy of Sciences. Quick intro and dinner, and the next day we went into town!
It was a beautiful sunny day. We wandered around the north side of the city to shop for supplies. The equivalent of a hardware store in China is a strip mall of tiny shack-like storefronts along the street. You can get lots of things, but sometimes it's easier to ask the laoban to make something for you if you can't find exactly what you want. This system actually works better for me, who needs really weird and specialized equipment and has someone to translate for me. We ended up getting the x- y- and z- axes calibration object made for me out of metal, and the calibration wand I'm going to make myself with the soldering iron we got for 2 dollars.
Sarah took us to a great Taoist restaurant for lunch that served 4 types of fake meat. It was really amazing that each of them tasted different and had unique textures. At that restaurant it is imperative that you take your leftovers (da bao), because they don't want anything to go to waste.
After lunch we explored the south end of the city, which is a very Uygur place. Usually when we walk around town we get lots of stares, to which we smile and reply with "Ni hao!." Here they smile at me and say "Yakshmosis!" because they think I'm also Uygur. The architecture is different here- lots of pointed arches everywhere, and everything is intricately decorated. We each got our heal examined by a medicine man. He takes your pulse, looks at your tongue, and squeezes your fingertips to find out what's wrong with you, then sells you the medicine. I would hesitate to do so because there are snakes, bull penises, flayed lizards, deer horns, etc hanging from the ceiling. Kim's friend showed us around and together we had a delicious dinner. I think that being vegetarian is easy in China when you have good friends to help you order.
The next day, one of the professors we are collaborating with took us out to the Przewalski horse breeding center. This species of horse has never been domesticated, and is critically endangered. This center, started in 1985, has been breeding these horses in captivity and releasing them to the wild. They told us that the horses had stables from the beginning, but the humans taking care of them didn't have a house to sleep in until 1995! They look so fuzzy because they're just starting to shed their thick winter coats. These horses have a very stiff mane, and a tail that is more flat like a feather than radially symmetric. We got video of the horses kicking each other and biting each other over food.
Then we made it to Fukang and ate pulled noodles for dinner. Apparently these noodles are unique to Xinjiang. The noodles are made out of a local flour that is different from common flour. Also, the dry climate of the area means that if you take the special flour elsewhere, then it won't stick together in the right way.
That brings us to today. We went shopping for equipment and realized that there are some things that you can't get in normal markets in China even though everything is made here. Plexiglas, rebar, and some PVC pipe joints are impossible to find. Instead we bought a pane of actual glass, wooden stakes, and completely rethought our PVC pipe contraption. Also, the toilet paper here is stretchy and doesn't have a hollow center. The paper goes straight to the middle.
We scoped out the desert in the afternoon and I got my first soil samples and penetrometer readings. Kim showed me what jerboa tracks look like and how they differ from those of the gerbils. She really knows a lot about the ecology of the area, and I'm so glad to have her to learn from. It's surprising that even though it's the desert, there is still so much life.
On the way back to the station we stopped by a Kazakh family's house because we saw baby camels. Little did we know, they also had baby sheep!
I've been learning a lot about China the entire time we've been here. But that's a post for another day. Wan an!

